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We’ve rewritten this guide with expert tips from senior staff writer Kit Dillon, who’s moonlighted as a professional mover for five years.
Whether you’re moving across town or across the country, solo or with a large family, each move is unique. Over the past five years, I’ve helped countless people pack and move in and out of their homes in Oahu, Hawaii. In that time, I’ve seen plenty of “moving hacks,” which often end up damaging items or wasting time and money. But there are a few things that almost universally make every moving job easier. Here are accessories, tools, and techniques that will make the process a little less onerous.
Many of these recommendations originally came from Wirecutter staffers, who’ve collectively logged more than 150 moves in total—to and from small rentals and multistory houses, across town and across the country, solo and with kids in tow. In the past 20 years, I’ve personally moved eight times—internationally and domestically. But I’ve garnered most of this advice from working as a professional mover in Hawaii on weekends and holidays for the past five years.
A few thoughtful strategies will make any move a lot quicker, less physically demanding, and cheaper (if you’re hiring movers). Instead of using a random assortment of luggage, trash bags, containers, and so on, try to box everything you can. Boxes are easier to carry, and they stack efficiently on a dolly and in the truck. The more items you pack in boxes, the less “chowder” you’ll have at the end—the bric-a-brac of loose and awkwardly shaped things that have to be moved one at a time and slow truck packing to a snail’s pace.
Ideally, boxes should all be of fairly uniform size—especially if you’re loading into a moving truck or hiring movers. The more uniform the boxes, the easier they are to move and stack; this will save you time and reduce the chance of things breaking during transit. Usually, a mover can easily hand-carry two medium boxes and can stack four boxes on a good hand cart. I’ve loaded three-bedroom houses into a truck in just under two hours because everything was packed efficiently in medium-size boxes. And I’ve seen similarly sized homes take twice as long when nothing was packed well.
It may seem efficient to leave your drawers packed with clothes, but a dresser loaded with clothing is remarkably heavy. And moving a heavy piece of furniture is a good way to hurt yourself or your movers and to ding your walls. Instead, pack all of your clothes in boxes, too. If the dresser drawers are heavy, remove them for the movers to wrap in moving blankets. If the dresser is relatively light, you (or your movers) can wrap it in stretch wrap to keep the drawers from sliding out. Empty and wrap anything with doors, drawers, or hinges to keep them from swinging around as they’re lifted. Remember to pack your lightest items (like pillows, blankets, and light clothing) in the biggest boxes. Your heaviest items (such as books and office papers) should go in the smallest boxes.
Remember to pack your lightest items (like pillows, blankets, and light clothing) in the biggest boxes. Your heaviest items (such as books and office papers) should go in the smallest boxes.
Every item you move with you adds to the total cost, which is why it makes sense to cull the things you no longer use. In this piece on budgeting for a move, we outline effective strategies for reducing stuff, and in our moving checklist, we provide a useful timeline for decluttering.
Most home-supply stores (including HomeDepot, Lowe’s, and Walmart) and truck-rental places (like U-Haul) sell cardboard boxes. These boxes are decent, but personally I like the quality of the ones from Uboxes. To get the best prices, consider purchasing sets of boxes (or moving kits that include other packing supplies), as opposed to buying boxes individually. You can save even more by buying used boxes from a reputable bulk supplier (and they are vetted and clean). Most of what you pack should go into uniform medium boxes (around 18 by 14 by 12 inches). And again, heavy items should go in small boxes and light items in larger boxes.
Each medium box in this set of 20 measures 18 by 14 by 12 inches.
This kit contains small and medium boxes, tape, bubble wrap, and more.
*At the time of publishing, the price was $99.
A wardrobe box makes it easy to pack all of the nice clothing hanging in your closet. And it holds you to the golden moving rule—where possible, everything in a box! Yes, you can throw everything into garbage bags, which will end up on the floor of a moving truck or stuffed into the back of a car. But these can tear, and then you’ll have to wash every bit of clothing you own. During a move, a wardrobe box protects clothing, so it comes out unscathed. These boxes are all strongly constructed from thick cardboard and have a metal hanging bar.
If you didn’t save your TV box (and who does—they’re huge), you can find specially designed TV boxes, like Home Depot’s Heavy-Duty Large Adjustable TV and Picture Box. Though you don’t need one, it will make moving a TV significantly easier. Professional movers should be able to figure out ways to safely move a TV without one (they’ve got plenty of tricks), but a box will greatly reduce the risk of damage during transport. Like the boxes that TVs originally ship in, these boxes include Styrofoam padding to keep the corners of your TV secure, plus a foam bag to keep the screen safe. I’ve found that if the stand doesn’t fit in the box with the TV, you can package it in a separately labeled box, along with all of the cables. To make sure I don’t lose the screws and other hardware, I put them in a plastic bag and tape it to the stand or the rear of the TV. You might also consider boxes for lamps, records, and specialty electronic equipment.
This wardrobe box has a metal hanging rod and measures 20 by 20 by 34 inches.
If you want to forego cardboard boxes entirely—either to reduce waste or because you’re worried about water damage from weather—consider crate rentals, like BungoBox or Rentacrate. You’ll also avoid the endless folding, taping, and breaking down that comes with using cardboard boxes. These companies not only deliver the boxes but also pick them up on a date you set. So at the end of your move, you don’t have to deal with getting rid of all that cardboard. These bins are easy to open and close, as well as to stack and roll on a dolly (which you can also rent from the company). However, not every city has crate rentals, or they may be available only for local moves (unless the company offers shipping or has locations where you’re moving from and to). Search “rent crates for moving” to see if there are options near you.
You can rent these heavy-duty plastic crates.
This is our pick for a heavy-duty yet inexpensive storage bin.
In certain circumstances, it makes sense to use storage containers to pack things you don’t plan to use right away, including items you’ll store in a garage for months or years after your move. I don’t suggest moving an entire house in boxes like these, since they could break and don’t stack as easily. The Home Depot HDX Tough Storage Tote comes in eight stackable sizes, and it’s cheap: You can buy a dozen HDX totes for the same price as one or two of our more expensive picks. However, they’re made with polypropylene, so they’re not as tough in extremely cold temperatures. If you need something a little more sturdy, consider Rubbermaid Brute Totes (but remember, they’re also more expensive). These are made with high-density polyethylene, a sturdier and more temperature-resistant plastic than polypropylene.
If you want to pack like a pro, this is where it starts. Packing paper and honeycomb wrap are great for protecting plates, bowls, glassware, and any other delicate items. You’ll need more than you think, but when you use either of these, packing up a kitchen is mind-blowingly easy. Simply lay out your stack of paper, place down the item, fold around it, and continue. Pad the bottom of your box with some crumpled paper, fill in the voids, et voilà!
Newspaper also works decently in a pinch, but the ink may rub off on your stuff, and the paper tears more easily. And newspaper packs more tightly, so it may not provide the same cushioning as packing paper when balled up. For delicate items, bubble wrap is a good safety measure, but it can take hundreds of years to decompose. In the lead-up to your move, consider saving any bubble wrap that arrives in packages. Or get compostable bubble wrap or biodegradable packing peanuts to fill out the empty spaces in your boxes. And if you simply have a lot of empty space to fill, you can order airDefender Air Pillows in bulk.
These recycled paper sheets can be used for wrapping and void filling.
Ask your moving company whether it has mattress bags. If it doesn’t (or you’re not hiring movers), consider buying a heavy tarpaulin mattress bag. Unlike plastic mattress bags, these are easier to carry without tearing. And you can place your mattress in a hallway or—as a last resort—on the street, without worrying about dirt and stains. If you have a heavy latex mattress, it’s best to let your moving team know so they can prepare. (Latex mattresses don’t have the inner structure most spring mattresses have. That lack of rigidity plus the weight can make it feel like you’re wrestling with a ¼-ton pool noodle.) Remember to use a moving blanket to line the floor of your moving truck in the spot you want to set down the mattress.
This heavy-duty tarpaulin bag with padded handles makes moving mattresses easier.
Stretch wrap is a favorite of professional movers for a reason. With stretch wrap, you can quickly bundle things that otherwise wouldn’t fit together into a single cardboard box or standalone cocoon. And it keeps furniture, like dressers or bureaus, from opening mid-lift. If you’re not hiring movers, buy a roll with some width to it, about 15 inches or so, to make wrapping large items quicker and easier.
Consider using a 5-inch mini stretch wrap for smaller items or to add an extra layer of protection for delicate objects packed in bubble wrap and paper. You can also use stretch wrap to cushion the sharp edges of freestanding items. Multiple stretch-wrapped items (such as breakable kitchenware) packed in a box tend to shift around less in transit because the plastic surfaces stick together.
Use this 15-inch-wide, 1,000-foot roll of plastic stretch wrap for wrapping larger items.
Use this 5-inch-wide, 1,000-foot roll of mini stretch wrap for wrapping smaller items.
*At the time of publishing, the price was $20.
This is the ideal multipurpose tape to use for most moves.
When possible—especially if you’re packing up several rooms’ worth of boxes—buy the best-quality tape you can: You’ll need approximately one roll of tape for every 15 to 20 boxes.
For most moves, the standard Scotch Tough Grip Moving Packaging Tape is great. You can get a good price on a multipack, and I’ve used it in hundreds of moves. At 1½ inches wide, it secures boxes weighing up to 80 pounds and usually costs under $3 a roll.
Use this tape to pack boxes that need to go into long-term storage.
If you know some of your boxes are going into long-term storage, or you anticipate a very fraught move, consider using stronger Scotch Storage Tape. This tape is similar to Scotch Tough Grip Moving Packaging Tape (above). But this one has a heavier adhesive, which stays stuck through temperature fluctuations from -25 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Gorilla Tough & Wide Shipping Tape This extra-wide, 3-inch packing tape is ideal to use for large boxes or for additional weather resistance.Buying Options$18 * from Walmart (pack of two) $23 from Amazon (pack of two) *At the time of publishing, the price was $20.
This extra-wide, 3-inch packing tape is ideal to use for large boxes or for additional weather resistance.
*At the time of publishing, the price was $20.
If you have large boxes—or you simply want the toughest (and most expensive) tape—Gorilla Tape Tough & Wide Shipping Tape seals most boxes with just one strip. (Note that it’s pricey and won’t fit standard tape dispensers.) For very heavy boxes (over 100 pounds), try reinforced strapping tape.
Easy to use (and load), a tape dispenser will make packing faster and easier.
Based both on my own and on previous testing for this guide, the Uline H-150 Tape Dispenser is Wirecutter’s favorite tape gun. The H-150 was easier to load and more efficient at cutting tape than two other, popular dispensers: the Tape King TX100 Packing Tape Dispenser Gun and the Scotch Commercial Grade Shipping Tape Dispenser. In tests, the Uline dispenser’s finer teeth cut tape quickly, without a lot of pressure. And a lever folds down and stays down, so you can easily thread tape through the roller. The other dispensers struggled to tear through tape.
To know what’s what during a move, you should label every box, bin, and bag. The best way to do that is to have plenty of Sharpie markers on hand. They’re inexpensive, so go nuts—one per person or one in each room, one at the door, and another in the truck. That way no one is tempted to “label it later” or to label only a couple sides of a box just to save ink. And by using Sharpie markers, you’ll end up with big, legible labels (such as “hand towels, shower stuff, toiletries” or at least “bathroom”), so you won’t have to decode a stack of mystery boxes at your new home. If you hire movers, this makes unloading easier for them as well.
To label plastic bins or odd boxes or items, try Scotch Masking Tape, which you can write on. Some people also prefer to use a system of labels. Already marked, these sticker labels make it a breeze to organize each room. Put them all in the same location on every box, and color-code them by room (this is especially important if you’re reusing older boxes with outdated content labels all over them). First you should write the destination room, and then note the contents underneath that (if the label is too small, just write that info on the box itself).
If you have a particularly complicated move (some boxes going into storage and others to a new house, for example), or you prefer to know exactly where everything is at all times, consider using an organizing app. Some apps, like Encircle, are designed for home inventory but easily work for moving. Or keep track of every box with a tracking app, such as Moving Organizer Lite. If you like, you can also piece together your own tracking system with apps like Evernote.
Get these markers by the dozen, and use them to label all of your boxes.
This tape is great for labeling plastic bins and other items you don’t want to write directly on.
Use HaulPro’s aluminum dolly to move loads up to 500 pounds.
Most people don’t need an expensive hand truck. However, if you can’t beg, borrow, or rent one—and you’re still determined to move a fairly large house by yourself—the HaulPro Heavy Duty Hand Truck is a modest investment compared with the price of future chiropractic visits. After years of moving, I can say that hand trucks make it a lot easier to move heavy items.
If you haven’t hired movers and are attempting to move a few heavy items like fridges, old wood dressers, or appliances, professional movers often use lifting straps. These transfer the weight of the load to your back (rather than your arms), and they make moving large or awkward items much easier. I’ve also used Forearm Forklift Lifting Straps; these are a little trickier to use but still make it significantly easier to lift something without bending over. If you do decide to lift your own heavy items, proceed at your own risk.
If you’re prepping your own truck or storage container, you’ll want at least a few Cheap Cheap Moving Boxes Pro Moving Blankets. Throw them over expensive wood items, pad the floor before lowering a mattress or headrest, or tape them around large but fragile objects (their usefulness is endless). A professional moving crew will have a supply of these as they pack a truck. When wrapped around furniture, these blankets provide a bit more padding than a traditional blanket. One set should be more than enough to last a lifetime of moves.
For protective padding, use these heavy-duty quilted moving blankets, which measure 80 by 72 inches.
Moving never fails to produce extra waste. And strong trash bags are invaluable for clearing out the various kinds of trash you accumulate when moving. The 42-gallon Husky Contractor Clean-Up Bags can hold everything from an unbelievable amount of cut-up cardboard to bougainvillea trimmings—without tearing. If you’re worried about lifting and toting heavy bags (which could hurt your back), consider using smaller, 33-gallon contractor bags.
These durable, 42-gallon heavy-duty trash bags are invaluable during cleanup.
If you’re moving out of a rental, prepare to patch some walls. The 3M High Strength Small Hole Repair All in One Applicator Tool is great for touching up small holes from nails or hooks. The small tube fits in a back pocket, so you can whip it out during a final walk-through, before the landlord arrives. And you don’t need a larger tub or a separate tool. This product comes with a flat edge for scraping, plus a rough end for buffing and smoothing. The material dries instantly to an unassuming white, the ghost of nail holes past.
Use this tool to patch and sand nicks and nail holes.
The Milwaukee 48-22-1502—our pick for best utility knife—can be used with one hand, and it stores five extra blades.
Packing is only half the job. At the other end of the trail, you’ll be unpacking everything. It’s much easier to open and break down cartons if you use a good box cutter, also known as a utility knife. We like the Milwaukee 48-22-1502 Fastback Utility Knife with Blade Storage because you can operate it with one hand, and its handle is comfortable to hold. A pair of light work gloves will protect your hands from the chafing, drying effects of handling all that cardboard. Something made from breathable fabric, with grippy, rubbery fingers and palms, would be ideal. Any hardware store should stock gloves that meet those criteria. But if you have time (and an address) for a delivery, we’ve liked the inexpensive Showa Atlas gardening gloves for years.
This article was edited by Daniela Gorny and Christine Cyr Clisset.
Kit Dillon is a senior staff writer at Wirecutter. He was previously an app developer, oil derrick inspector, public-radio archivist, and sandwich shop owner. He has written for Popular Science, The Awl, and the New York Observer, among others. When called on, he can still make a mean sandwich.
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